Glendale Cove, Knight Inlet – Pristine Wilderness Paradise!!

We set our alarms for 6:30am – yes, an alarm for the first time since our holiday started!  It was James’s birthday and we had to be on the move early for our adventure to Glendale Cove, Knight Inlet.

I had blown up some ‘James’ balloons (found at Walmart) and had a couple of small presents waiting for little James when he woke.  James had been eyeing off my silk (wrinkle free & anti-aging - I hope) pillowcase for the past year.   Well, it was the perfect gift to bring along (light and small) and now Prince James has his own.   

We drove down to the seaplane terminal to begin the start of our wilderness adventure.  We only had 24 hours at Glendale Cove and we were all excited – and I suppose a little anxious.  We were about fly in a seaplane to an extremely remote part of Western Canada to hopefully see bears.

We were met at the dock by an employee of Knight Inlet Lodge and told what to expect for the next 24 hours.  It would be like we were at boot camp - go, go, go!  We would go on an excursion, eat, excursion, eat, excursion, eat, sleep, eat, excursion then leave.  There are only ever 40 guests that can stay at any given time at the lodge and there was approximately 15 guests arriving on the first day with us.  We spoke with a lovely couple from Manchester Rita and Ivan – it was Rita’s birthday that day too.

The flight into Glendale Cove was surreal - it looked like we were flying into Jurassic Park.  There was mist all through the trees on the mountains and it began raining.  I have to admit I was a little disappointed it had started to rain however the clouds made the mountains and the water turn a silvery gray.  We landed – phew – and were given a tour of the floating dock that would be our pad for the next 24 hours.  No time to waste, within 45 minutes we were rugged up and out on our first excursion, an estuary tour.   The rain briefly stopped and we would spot our first bear of the day.  A little black bear, and although we were excited, all four of us were hoping to see a grizzly bear.   That is what we had come for.  Of course we were in the wild - nothing is guaranteed – but our fingers were crossed.  On that first excursion we also saw bald eagles, seals (dogs of the ocean) and many other varieties of birds.  

Back for a delicious hot lunch and then straight back out for our next excursion - no time to waste.  We would be bear viewing at a stand overlooking the weir.  Would we see a grizzly?  We were all hopeful.

The rain had eased however we were told to put on the rain resistant suits and gum boots.  We had a short boat ride across the cove – that’s when I saw the sign. ‘Extreme Danger, Grizzly Bears’.  We hopped off the boat and had a short walk to a bus that would take us deeper into the rainforest. We were given a brief about how we should behave whilst on the stand– no sudden movements, only whispers, and no matter what – if we were to encounter a bear on the way, we were not to run.  Only food runs.   I felt even more like I was in Jurassic Park – what was I doing there, was I crazy? 

We drove for 15 minutes along a narrow, dirt road into the rainforest and arrived at a walkway that would lead to a stand. Our guides went out of the bus and checked the area and when all was clear (of bears!) we were lead up the walkway to the viewing stand overlooking the weir.  As I looked over the stand, my breath was taken away by what I saw.  Even though I knew we were going bear watching, no words can describe those very first moments.  There were the grizzly bears!  And not just 1, 2 or even 3 – there were 9!  Mother bears with their cubs, and one male bear right in the middle.  We were spellbound and we would see a total of 15 bears including two sets of twins and one set of triplets.  The salmon were running and the bears were filling up so they would be fat enough to last through hibernation (which begins in November)  We were at the stand for two hours and the bears were chomping and chomping through the salmon.  I could write about our experience for hours – I did not want to leave.  On the way back, three people needed to go to the toilet – one of those was little Jimmy who had downed two hot chocolates and lemonade at lunch.  The bus stopped about 5 minutes drive away for the stand and everyone presumed there was a toilet.  Oh no, there wasn’t!  I took Jimmy of the bus and we were told to make a lot of noise as we walked along to scare away any bears.  I don’t think I have ever been more relieved to get back on a bus!  Terry felt bad as he didn’t realise we’d gone out there alone!

Back at the lodge for afternoon tea – how long have we got?  10 minutes! The schedule was grueling but welcome.  Back into our suits and off on a cruise of Knight Inlet.  James had had enough – he was tired.  The boat took around 12 of us into the inlet – and Will was lucky enough to play captain!  On the boat there was an inside compartment and seats outside.  James and I chose outside – I wanted the wind in my hair and the sea spray on my face!  A short time into the cruise, there were humpback whales.  We could hear them breathing!  We saw more eagles and seals – and also spoke with a couple who were from….Kotara!  The cruise all became too much for James – he fell asleep outside, in the rain!  He had really had enough and at the end of the excursion when I woke him up he said, ‘I thought I would go to sleep so when I woke up it would all be over’  One day he will look back and realise how special it was!

Back at the lodge for canapés, drinks and a well earned dinner.  We sat with Rita and Ivan again and compared travel stories.  When I arrived at the lodge I arranged for the chef to whip James up a small birthday cake – and we surprised Rita with a cake as well.  All of the guests sung happy birthday – James was very chuffed, he didn’t think he’d get a cake on his birthday.

After dinner, all of the guests sat around together and one of the guides told a dreamtime story about a young boy, Gluscabi, and the Wind Eagle.  He was very animated and every time he spoke of Gluscabi he pointed to James.  All of the guests listened intently for 30 minutes with many laughs along the way.

Finally, to finish the night, we all watched a documentary that was produced in Knight Inlet by National Geographic and spoken by our favourite naturalist David Attenborough.  The documentary was about the salmon and their incredible journey to spawn in the exact place they were born.  We also learnt why the salmon are so important to the bears and other wildlife.  We all crawled into bed around 10pm, our alarms set for 6am to meet breakfast at 6:30am.  By 7:30am, we would be back on the water looking for bears.

Fluffy - had been sitting up all night waiting for James 

James's favourite gift - the silk pillowcase

Thank you Nanny & Pop for the card - and $$$

Sunrise at Campbell River

Our seaplane awaits

Let's do this!

Estuary tour

First bear of the day

I saw this little face looking at me

It was a misty morning...

Our guide, Jason

Oh crap - what have i done!

This is what we came for

The male bear - very unwelcome amongst the female bears

Twins!

A little club clever enough to catch a fish

Papa Bear

Bears in the background at the weir

Mother & cubs

This mother did not stop watching the male - every time he looked their way, she stepped forward!

The bears at salmon constantly

Using the weir as a table

Got it!

Triplets arrive - just as we were leaving

Our Jurassic Park bus

A third excursion was just too much for James!

Come on James - this is a once in a lifetime experience!!

Terry's new job

James fell asleep outside in the rain!  One tired birthday boy

Not great pics - humpback whales.  I have a new appreciation for wildlife photographers!

I moved James inside - he slept the whole way back.

Captain Will!

Birthday boy

Exhausted and asleep with his new friend, Flobby.  James called him this as at the last airport, a lady asked Fluffy's name.  She thought James said 'Flobby' and we have laughed about this along the way.